Part of the work in module 3 (Production Pattern Cutting) is to make one of the garments from our Uniform 2020 project. I’ll be making a tailored leather and wool jacket. (I don’t make things easy for myself!) This is the jacket:
The brown is faux leather, the plaid is wool, and so is the blue collar. I’ll be making this to my measurements and using RTW tailoring
, so I will make my pattern accordingly. I have adapted my dress block to make a tailored jacket block, and made a toile of the block. It was huge! (At the waist anyway.)
That’s not what I call fitted! So I took it in at the side seam and front darts; the back was pretty good as it was. After two goes it looked like this:
That’s better. I didn’t take it in any more, and I started putting the style lines on with cotton tape. I was doing it in the mirror to begin with so the imaginary jacket closes the wrong way. This took all evening.
It really only started looking right after a lot of tweaking, and a draped sleeve. I still have to draft the sleeve block for the jacket, and then transfer these lines to copies of the block. I also have to alter the block to account for the taking in of the waist. Thankfully we will have three weeks from this coming Tuesday to finish this, but that includes making the final jacket. You see why I’m doing speed tailoring!