My Cut21 Jacket Toile

I still have quite a bit of fabric left from the Cut21 Jacket so I’m going to make myself one. I might do a few hacks to the design like a two-way zip and a hood for when I’m on my bike, but we’ll see…

Anyway, the multi-sized patterns I make to sell are drafted to standard sizes and a b-cup, and I am rubbish at fitting so I confess to you that I draft my personal patterns according to my blocks. I graded my dress block (which took months of fitting) up to a jacket block and got something quite good, though not without a few concerns. This is what I got:



It could perhaps be a little closer-fitting on the front waist, but if I take it in as much as I like, it will nearly be a dress block again. 🙂


The back armscyes also fill out a bit when I have a light sweater on:


There is still some “excess” fabric, but I don’t think I could cycle comfortably if that weren’t there.DSC06297


This is a ‘style cut’ pattern as Aldrich calls it, so it’s meant for softer fabrics. I suppose that means medium weight things with a medium drape. If I made something in 14oz canvas it would stand out from my body a lot more than if I made it from jersey. Calico shows every unpleasant crease and line; I hope that the jacket will look better in the medium weight linen I have.


Being satisfied with the block after sorting out the back neck, I drafted the Cut21 jacket over the block. It’s a simple style, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t puzzling. It helped me to draft manually before replicating the process on Adobe Illustrator. The front seam was the most confusing part, and as usual, it turned out to be ridiculously simple once I was doing it with paper! I suppose my brain just works differently with paper than with graphics. I also used the one-piece sleeve block and adapted it to make a two-piece sleeve. I always have to work out how to do this all over again. The other day, I found in Aldrich’s jacket book that she gives instructions for doing it. I will try them next time.

This is the toile for my Cut21 Jacket:

DSC06311I like it. It looks smart without being boring. I’ve already taken to wearing it out on my bike (yes, a toile made of calico, worn outside the house). It’s passed the test, but a fastening would help on windy days, preferably a two-way zip.

DSC06313 DSC06314 DSC06318
DSC06334So that is the toile. I haven’t got round to making the real jacket yet because I made some jeans for a job interview at a bike shop. 🙂 They are going to take some breaking in, because they are real denim and I am used to stretch denim and skirts. (I have a whole new sympathy for male cyclists now!)

In other news, York College today officiated my place! And I’m sorting out my accommodation (it’s lovely!), and (fingers tightly crossed) a job! I’m super excited! (As if all these exclamation marks didn’t tell you that.)


I will be making this pattern available in my Craftsy and Easy stores as soon as it’s ready, but of course I have to make the real one first!




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