This is a throwback to a post I did a while ago on how to draft a skirt pattern. A reader messaged me and asked for a post on how to properly measure oneself, so I said I would do one. And here it is🙂
The first thing to do is to tie some tape round your waist and your hips to keep a level. This is easier if you have a full-length mirror, which I currently do not. -_-
To get your front and back waist measurements place the end of the tape where you feel the side-most point of your waist it (this is all a matter of what feels right), wrap the tape around your waist and use your thumb nail to mark the other side-most point. Hold that and the waist measurement point (good thing you have two hands) and make a note of them.
Do the same for your hips. Be a little slack on the front of your hips if you like, especially if like so many of us, you have a bit of a tummy.🙂
And do the same for your high hip measurement. This is along your pelvis bone line. On me that’s 8cm down from my waist at the CF. I know the measuring tape drooped a bit in the photo.
You will use this measurement to check that the darts aren’t too hollow and the side seams aren’t too curved when you shape them. I once scooped my back darts too much and now I have a high-waist skirt.🙂
Measure from the waistline to the hipline front and back.
This is why a mirror helps: my hip tape dropped a bit at the back in the photo.🙂
To make this easier/quicker, I’ve added an Excel file for you to download. It makes it quicker to get your dart measurements and so on ready for drafting your skirt pattern. Click here to access the file. :)
We’ve been having a heatwave here in Britain, and I needed some more shorts. I had what I thought was a pretty good pattern, but measuring the waistline I wonder how on Earth I ever managed to zip my un-stretched shorts up! I must have made some colossal mistakes when measuring or something because I’ve had to increase the waist measurement considerably (and, no, I haven’t got that much bigger — as if I could gain weight!).
The inspiration for these shorts is a blend of Audrey Hepburn’s shorts in Sabrina, and some shorts I have already designed and made. They are quite short, but not hot pants, and I’ve flared the legs a bit since toiling so they will hopefully be a bit more elegant.
The initial fit (after adjusting the waist measurement on Illustrator) was pretty good. The waistband pokes out a bit at the front, but I think that’s due to the fairly straight waistline on the front pieces. I’ve corrected that since. The waistline fits actually on my waistline all the way around. They’re comfortable.
I did have a 1cm discrepancy on the inseam — the back needed lengthening there, but now it matches the front. I think that may account for the funny fit on the toile.
I’ve since flared the back leg pieces so they don’t cup the cheeks so. I was working off a photo of Audrey Hepburn:
There seemed to be some variable camel toe on the front. It wasn’t major and I wasn’t sure what to do about it, so I’ve left it for now. We’ll see if it disappears when I use proper fabric.🙂
Now, partly in an effort not to use the iron (I don’t want to use too much electricity) and partly because I don’t know where my interfacing is, I have not fused the waistband on these shorts. Instead I am using my favourite notion: cotton tape. I stitched to the waistband on one seam-line before I did anything else, and I will stitch it along the fold-line next. On this line of stitching, I will ease it in by 0.5cm to give the fit of a contoured waistband, without the bother of actually drafting and cutting one (save fabric). This is kind of an experiment and we’ll see by the end of this post how it goes.
I am using an invisible zip because they are the easiest to sew, and you only need a 1cm seam allowance, so they’re the easiest and most economical to cut as well.
I have lined the back pockets too. I liked in inside, so I’ve left one the WS out, which you’ll see at the end.🙂
(Bother! I just remembered that I forgot to use cotton tape on the hip pockets; they seem to be okay…)
Both of the fabrics for these shorts came from a previous college project (which was heavily inspired by Colette Sewing Patterns). One is a stretch jade denim, and the pocket linings are Liberty, both from eBay.
I was going to use the WS of this denim, but I kind of like the RS too. We’ll see if I make another pair from it, or if I use to for something else.🙂
I’m a teensy bit out of practice with stretch fabrics, so the back pockets were minutely distorted, but I think I soon got the hang of it again.🙂
The finished shorts
Annoyingly, my sewing machine pedal stopped working, so I had to sew using the start/stop button, which makes it harder. Anyway, I finished the shorts last night. I hand-stitched the waistband down inside, after bagging it out at the ends.
I hemmed the shorts by hand, and then found that I had to TS the edge down by machine anyway. I should have increased the hem allowance because, for some reason, I only used a 1cm hem allowance. I need about an inch. I could have used a bias facing, but I don’t know how much binding I have left…
Click on the images below for more details.🙂
Front of shorts. I will change the pattern to have the pockets start farther from the centre front
The back. I LOVE how neat this invisible zip turned out!😀
That thing that looks like a caterpillar is the hand-made bar for the hook and bar at the top of the zip
Hand chain-stitching along the front pockets
The gusset. This not only makes it more comfortable on a bicycle, but also improves the look of the shorts from the back!
The cuffed hem. I pressed it but…
…it needed a little help to stay neatly up, so I hand-tacked it at the front and back of each leg
Back pocket. I was going to have them match, but I like this Liberty print so much I have it on show! And I used a serpentine stitch along the tops of the back pockets, just because it looks pretty🙂
The inside of the hem. Overstitched, herringbone stitched hem, then topstitched about 3mm from the cut edge. I will increase the hem allowance on the pattern.
Side, with view of contrast pocket
The other side🙂
Side note, I love this sweater from The Sweater Company (who do not know I just said that)
Somehow it just makes the outfit better🙂
(Just trying out the gallery thing on WordPress — every one of those cuts my head off! lol)
All in all, I LOVE these shorts! They’re so comfy! They fit just right too.
This is a ‘quick’ project that has taken me about a month or so because my guitar kept distracting me and begging me to play it😉. It’s based on my TNT French Woven Tee pattern (self-drafted), but adapted to have a yoke-kimono cap sleeve, a separate bodice section, and the dart shifted higher up the side seam. I had the fabric in my stash from previous college projects and thought I’d use it up to make a nice summer top.
This was also an opportunity to try to improve my photography/modelling skills and as it is the middle of summer (hottest day of the year! Woo!) I could take advantage of the late golden hour.
The idea is that it looks like a bodice and tunic, sort of. A modern version, if you will, that doesn’t look like a costume.🙂
To begin with the sleeves were huge and I didn’t like it. So I took them in at the shoulder seam and considerably reduced the length (about an inch or so). Regrettably I didn’t think to take photos as I was too eager to change it and see if I could make the top likeable. Which I did, and I’m happy with it now. There is, however, one slight issue: the back.
You can’t see it here, because I put the buttons on the wrong side (that’s not the issue).
Because of the way I finished the opening, you can see the yellow placket. Ugh. (Side note, the bottom of the placket DOES NOT look like that in real life. This must be a very bad angle).
Now for details. The top and bottom of the ‘bodice’ part are edged with running stitches. You may remember this feature from my FMP at Bishop. This top’s style continues from that collection. The neckline was finished by sewing stay tape along the WS, turning the s.a. under, and double-stitching. This allows for the nicest finish from the outside, I feel. The sleeves are hemmed similarly, but sans stay tape. Lace doesn’t fray, so neatening the seams is optional.
I chose to make the sleeves kimono sleeves. I thought this would be best. It uses less fabric and gives a cleaner look to the top.
(PS. The safety pin is a political thing as a result of Brexit. It’s to show that I won’t be racially abusive to you, so you can talk to me.🙂 )
The top button is a cool decorative one from my button jar. The rest are clear ones. I like using clear buttons on light-coloured fabrics. I think it looks more expensive. (Gah! In all these photos the edges of the top don’t line up! They did when I was sewing. I’m going to have to ask someone in real life how it looks!)
All in all, I’m quite pleased with this new top. It’s comfortable to wear (as it should be, having been drafted from my TNT block) and it looks good.
On of my self-assigned learning goals for this module was to use fabrics with which I have little to no experience. One such fabric was real leather. I was somewhat intimidated by this fabric, and not without cause. People always say that you get one chance with real leather. There can be no unpicking. And you can’t ease it.
Well, you know what? You can do both. To a point. Leather is actually fine to work with. I used pigskin. My Bernina 380’s feet work well with it, especially the Jeans foot #8. I didn’t need a teflon foot.
Of course, you can’t pin leather because, apart from anything else, doing so will make it wavy and it won’t match up where it’s supposed to. So sewing pinlessly is the way to go. (I seldom use pins anyway.)
Now, there are some interesting design features that caused difficulty with sewing. Namely: twigs as boning, feathers as embellishment, and eyelets.
The twigs needed shaping, which meant soaking in warm water, then shaping with gentle tiny bends to the shape of the bodice seam. I hand-stitched them on. The princess seams were top-stitched, so I caught those stitches with my hand-needle and linen thread. TIP: lacquer things with clear nail varnish. It made this look so much better, and I think it strengthened it too.
The feathers, well, sewing them on went a lot quicker when I realised I could do it by machine. Yeah. Anyway, the ones that ended above the waistband needed holes piercing in the leather for the quills to go though. That took both my awls (the fine one, and the thick one).
The eyelets. I had intended to use metal ones, but not only did they not come on time, but when they did arrive I found that ‘6mm’ referred not to the size of the hole, but rather to the size of the eyelet. Very annoying. Anyway, I used the straight stitch eyelet on my machine, punched with my Japanese screw punch, and satin stitched around the hole, cording as I went. I think this fits in quite well with the concept of and ‘adaptive’ survivor in that I did use my initiative. I’m quite pleased with how they turned out really.🙂
In retrospect I should have sewn the twigs on afterwards because they got in the way as I rotated the bodice around to sew the eyelets.
I draped the bodice pattern on the stand because fitting a corset is just too much work when you can drape it instead, and it had to fit the stand anyway.
What would I have done differently (had I superpowers)? I should have like the bodice to fit the model better, but as no one had any idea who that would be, this was impossible. What else? Hmm… Nothing really. I’m pleased with it. I learned that leather is no terror to work with (and I will be using the rest of the leather that I bought for something🙂 ). I also learned why we don’t use twigs as boning but that clear nail varnish has yet another use.
So, I’m fairly satisfied with this part of the project🙂
On Monday, with a mixture of relief and muted stress, I handed in my last project for this year. It is a museum piece that, alongside my classmates’ pieces, will go on display in an exhibit at York Castle Museum. The concept was Identity, which, as you may imagine, opened a can of worms for everyone, especially as most of us chose to do our own.
It all began with watching Greyson Perri’s documentary from the BBC on YouTube. People perceive identity itself in different ways, from simply what we wear, to the very brass tacks of our souls. For me, identity goes beyond what I like to do, or where I am from. It goes down to the very essence of what makes me tick, and how I fit in in this great clockwork piece we call the world.
Those of you who have followed this blog (sparsely written as it is) will know that avant-garde is not my forte. I have been close to tears before trying to do it. I do stuff you can actually wear. So my way around this project’s needing to be a museum piece was to make something more akin to a film costume. You couldn’t actually wear it in the street and look sane, but you could wear it in a film or on stage. Compromise accomplished.🙂
My concept is my identity as a FreeSpirit – Adaptive Survivor. Now, my little journal goes quite deep into myself, and I won’t bring you to tears with it. I have grown through this project. I feel stronger and more confident. I’ve figured some stuff out too.
One thing that makes me me, is something I figured out a while ago. One day I was feeling quite unappreciated (as it turned out, this was groundless, but there you go) and on the verge of feeling down. It dawned on me as I walked silently to the classroom at Bishop Burton College, that, at least I can make other people feel good. I can make them smile, I can encourage them, and can give them the strength I felt I lacked. That made me feel good, and I went to class with the resolve to do just that.
“We rise by lifting others.”
Another thing I learned was that freedom, as most people think of it, does not exist in nature. We need things, food etc., and so we either have to work for it, or we have to grow/hunt/forage it. Most of us are not going to live in the forest, so we need money. Anyway, everything has a price so the idea of being able to do whatever you want whenever and wherever you want to is no more realistic than a genie arriving on your doorstop in a milk bottle one morning. The closest we can ever come to freedom is an attitude to life that is nicely summed up in a little book called “The Life-changing Magic of Not Giving a F**k” (though I change it to “…Not Giving a Toss” or “…a Stuff.”🙂
If something is bothering you, or likely to bother you, let it go. Stuff it, as we say in Yorkshire. If there is a situation you don’t like, but you can’t do anything about, let it go (even sing that song if you like). Just letting it go feels so light and lets you feel happier.
“The secret to freedom is in not giving a stuff”
Something else is that, yes it takes a great deal of strength to say that you are not good at something (I cannot write songs for toffee). But it takes a great deal more to say firmly, confidently that you are good at something, bally good. And to say it with nothing more than your self-belief behind you. You are the only one who can make your ground strong enough to stand on and stand firm with things get shaky.
I suppose that ultimately, I have made myself stronger, and I make others stronger.
So how does all this come into the outfit I’ve made? Let’s have a look…
So that is an overview of the garments that are part of this project. In the next few posts I’ll go into more detail.🙂
This is a quick and easy project. I made my saddle cover this afternoon because my old one has holes in it, which renders it somewhat less useful as a way to keep my saddle dry.
You can download the pattern for free here in A4 and here in Letter size. It is ‘to cut on the fold’ because the pattern is wider than a sheet of paper and I thought it would be easier this way.
You Will Need:
34cm of 9mm wide elastic
Scissors (not your fabric scissors)
A ball point pen for drawing on the bag
Use a long stitch length. I used about 3mm, but 4mm would have been better, especially when sewing the elastic on.
If you would like to make a saddle cover from something other than a grocery bag, the gusset is 78cm wide (plus 2cm seam allowance) by 8cm deep (including seam allowance.
Pins probably won’t help and may rip the plastic.
Step One: Cutting out
Once you have printed your pattern lay it on a bag-for-life (a tough grocery bag) and draw round it. I used my old saddle cover cut up as a pattern so I had to add seam allowances. If you are using your half-pattern, mark the fold lines and flip it over to complete it.
Cut off the bottom 8cm of the bag to make the gusset. Trim off one of the side seams.
Step Two: Sew the gusset to the top
Starting at the CB, sew the gusset to the top until you get to the CF, or a little before if you like. Then sew the other side.
Step Three: Join the ends
When you get to the CF, match up the ends of the gusset and sew the CF seam. Then trim it down to a 1cm seam allowance.
Step Four: Prepare and attach the elastic
Cut 34cm of elastic. That includes a 1cm seam allowance/overlap at each end. Divide it and the gusset into quarters with a pen.
Starting at the CB, start sewing the elastic on just to secure it. Then, holding the gusset taut at the back of the needle, and stretching the elastic to match the next mark, sew the elastic to the gusset.
Then turn the elastic to the inside and sew it in place there. This gives a nicer finish. I have an extra line of stitching because when I turned the elastic under the first time I didn’t catch it in the stitching.🙂
And you’re done!
There you have your saddle cover: a practical, eco-friendly sewing project for your bike.
So this is my first completed project at York College: a cycling jacket. I’m reasonably pleased with it. Are there things I would change? Of course! Am I going to? Not this month. Maybe if I make another one in my size (this is one or two sizes above me). But this one fits adequately. And it’s comfortable. And the fabric is getting cosier the more I handle it. Not to dilly-dally, here is what the jacket looks like:
As you may have noticed or suspected, there are more cycling-specific features to this jacket than just a high-low hem.
The most obvious element is the reflective tape on the pockets, back and sleeve. I wanted to have 3M stuff that doesn’t show in the day, but that is extremely expensive and hard to come by, except in the stick-on stuff that is therefore unsewable (new word) and unlaunderable (another one). So I found some silver sew-on stuff on eBay and used that.
Another thing is the back Louvre vent. This is a fairly simple thing to make. Originally I had it too high up the back and it looked wrong and would probably not have been as effective.
Next come the accordion gussets. These I noticed on a motorcycling jacket. One of the uncomfortable things with ordinary jackets on a bicycle is that when you lean forward the jacket rides up into the back of your head and gets tight across your back. The accordion gussets give you extra room for movement.
When I made up the toile I found that the accordion gussets worked to give me extra range of motion, but didn’t go back neatly into place. The solution was to use elastic to attach the inner part of the pleat to the jacket’s seam allowances. I found out afterwards that this was fairly standard practice. It did the trick.
I had thought to use a stretch stay like I saw on the Levi’s Commuter Jacket in the York store. When I was making up the jacket, I came to the part where I would sew one in (having already cut it) and decided that it wouldn’t have enough pull to do the job, so I used elastic. In retrospect it might have worked if I had drafted it with negative ease, but that’s something to think about next time.
Apparently women cyclists complain that their cycling jackets don’t have three pockets at the back, so I’ve put three pockets on here. There are two patch pockets with elasticated top edges (need better elastic than this rubber stuff) and a pleated centre pocket with a recessed zip.
Now I’ve made the jacket I can see that the side pockets need to be higher at the side seams. I think I might add poppers to keep them closed better. It will make them more functional as pockets.
The centre pocket is huge! It goes all the way down to the hem. I have never used one because I’ve never had a jacket with one, but I’m told they’re useful, so I will see.
I got this idea from on of the jackets in Timothy Everest’s collaboration with Rapha (possibly the most stylish existing cycle-wear brand!) I suppose the idea is to have somewhere to keep your lock key or a tissue. We all know the terror of a runny nose while cycling!
Now, as it turns out, you can’t blind-hem the jacket sleeve where the pocket is. Sounds obvious now, but I was doing that late at night. (When will I learn?) Fortunately I was too lazy to do it on both sleeves so the one with the key fob is perfectly good.
These are basically in-seam pockets with an invisible zip. It took me two samples get it right. You have to think about what you’re doing for the first few because it can get a little bit confusing.
(Proper word please. :))
I was going to add epaulettes, but there is already a lot of bulk here. The purpose is to help your bag stay on your shoulder. “In real life” I think I’d use a waterproofed suede because it would have good grip. Otherwise leather.
Apart from the practicality, I think these really finish the look of the jacket.
You know how I like a well-drafted collar. Contrary to habit I draped this. And then made a draft. I really like how it rolls when open. It’s also just right for a close fit over the chin when done up.
The pattern is quite a different shape to any you find in modern pattern books and the opposite to Fasanella’s collar draft. Nothing against hers. You can draft some very nice collars that way. It just wasn’t what I wanted this time. I think my neckline is lower than hers is at the back and that is why my way worked better this time.
Also, the top collar is ribbing so it is nice and soft. It would be lovely to have cashmere or merino, but I got what I could in London. I think it’s synthetic but I’d have to take a flame to it to find out. I may do that later. I expect if it’s synthetic it will melt, and if it’s cotton it will burn.
CF Separating Zip with shield and storm guard
To keep out the rain. The jackets on the market have little turn-over things at the top (name please). I should have allowed more for turn-of-cloth here. Otherwise I am quite pleased with it.
Not actually at the underarms, so they ought probably to have a different name. These are lapped zips interrupting a princess seam, Between them and the lining are pieces of mesh shaped roughly like surfboards to stop people mistaking the vents for pockets. The mesh is sewn to the zips.
If you don’t know because you’re not a cyclist, the idea behind pit-vents is that you can let cool air in without your having to open your jacket and expose your entire front to the wind and rain.
I think I’d like these to be a bit longer, but I’m pleased with their neatness.
Wrist-Gaiters with thumb holes
It’s horrid to have the wind rush up your sleeves so I’ve put some cosy wrist-gaiters in with thumb loops to keep them down. I made the sleeve linings extra long to accommodate this but the penny has just dropped that that makes no difference as I have stitched the gaiters to the sleeve facings which do not move. Not amused. Grumbles like Marge. The gaiters ought to have been stitched into an extra seam in the sleeve linings. It’s a good thing the sleeves are too long for me. Will make a note of it in my project…
So they are the cycling-specific features. Something else I did was to buy a practically new coat at a charity shop (for £8!) and reverse-engineer it, then use some of what I’d learned when bagging the lining on this jacket. Consequently, this is the best one I’ve done so far. I tacked the shell to the lining at neck and side seams, and, using cotton 6mm tape, at the shoulder points. I also used cotton tape on the collar’s outer edge and the hemline because I knew they would stretch and wave if I didn’t. Cotton tape is an invaluable notion!
I will spray the jacket with Jack Pyke to waterproof it. Of course, wool is naturally water-resistant, but that varies with quality and type. I got this anonymous melton from the cupboard at college (there’s one major benefit to attending York College, UK!) so I don’t know much about it.
The lining came from the same place, but it’s definitely synthetic, which will make the vents worth having. It was surprisingly easy to cut and sew. Even more surprising was when I found that my so-blunt-they-only-cut-paper scissors cut it better than my fabric scissors.
So am I done with this project now? Nope. I’ve got enough paperwork to do to redecorate the flat. You want to see my to-do list, just for this project?
I’ll show you some of my sketchbook and the results of the above to-do list later. I have done some of it (thank goodness!), but I still have a lot to do, including look for a job to last me at least until the summer, because the bike shop doesn’t need me in the slow season. At least I’ll have the weekends to do my college work. And I have my savings, loans and grant to live on so I’ll be alright.
I was doing some decorating in a very cold building so I had to wear my coat. Consequently it got white paint on it, and the coat is navy blue. I had hoped that, it being water-based paint, it would wash off in the rain, but it didn’t. So I’ve cut off the bottom of the coat and given it quite a different look.
Note: my camera decided to ignore me on the face-recognition timer, so by the time I got this shot I was eating one of my home-made scones. Please excuse me, but it was the best shot.🙂
I closed the vent in the back because it was uncomfortable to cycle in when I landed on it on my saddle.
Side note: I don’t know if any other countries do this, but in England we wear a red poppy (usually paper) on Remembrance Sunday and Armistice Day (which is today, the 11th November) to honour those who gave their lives for us in the World Wars. According to the Royal British Legion,
The Royal British Legion is a charity whose objectives are written in its Royal Charter. The charity looks after serving and ex-servicemen, women and their dependants who are in need, financially or otherwise.
I wear mine for the service men and women serving since and now as well (that’s what the red thing on my coat is). God bless you all. I salute you. (I’m not collecting or anything, I just have a profound respect for and thanks for those in the Services.)
Coat Hiccup: I did try to do this the proper way of turning the bagged coat inside-out and re-sewing the hem, but for one reason or another it ended up all wavy, protruding in all directions that way. Maybe it stretched out during sewing, maybe there was an issue with the lining. Maybe I’ll never know. So I put the coat on in front of a mirror and pinned it as it looked best (yes, I used pins), Then simply topstitched the new, slightly-shorter-than-intended hemline. At least it’s presentable now. I quite like the end result really.
So that’s what I did last night. Why? Because I’m working on a cycling coat for a college project. More on that as it comes, mainly on Instagram because it’s quicker than blogging and counts towards my Project 365.🙂
I think it’s time for a catch-up, don’t you? As you can guess from the title, a lot has happened since the last post.
I’ve moved to York (amazing place – I love it!)
I’ve got a job at Cycle Heaven (best place ever to work!)
I’ve started Year 2 in Fashion Design and Production at York College (major stress, but I’m getting into it now)
We’ll, that’s not a big list, but they’re pretty big changes to my life. I’m loving it!
Moving to York
This place is like the Copenhagen of England. I’ve never seen so many bikes in one place in real life!
I live in a brilliant little flat with my landlord (who is lovely and put up my desk for me because it’s heavy). I have my own room and private bathroom. I’m learning to cook (I can now do pizza, home-made bases and sauce). Tesco is across the road. College is literally (really “literally”) two minutes bike ride away, so with stairs and everything, it’s 10-15 minutes from my door to the classroom.
I live on the outskirts of York, not in the city centre, so I am not far from the country bike rides. Sometimes I just need to go for a bike ride in the quiet, and I can do that now. I’ve done the Solar System twice and taken lots of pictures (I’m also doing a Project 365 with my camera and my phone). Tip: tinted sunglasses make great filters for your camera.🙂
Working at Cycle Heaven
One or two days after I moved in, I got a call from Cycle Heaven offering me the job for which I had previously applied and been interviewed. I don’t think my enthusiasm came across on the phone, but there was some serious fist-pumping going on when I hung up! I did three week’s full-time including a week’s trial, and got the job. Now I work weekends and I love it! I actually look forward to going into work. I look forward to it from about Monday. Everyone there is so nice; it’s like having another family.
Year 2 at York College
Because I have done a foundation degree at Bishop Burton College, I got straight onto Year 2 of the BA(Hons) Fashion Design and Production Degree at York College. After the very long Summer holiday we design students seem to get, it’s like being thrown in the deep end when you get back to college. We get three modules at once! At Bishop we got one at a time in the second year. I suppose this might be more reflective of industry practice. I don’t know. I think the only thing I can do is get organised and focus. I always say that you learn a lot at university that isn’t on the syllabus.
So there are some big changes in my life, and they come with stress and a gigantic learning curve. What can I say? “I’m a damsel, I’m in distress, I can handle this.” (Meg, Herucles).
That’s what my brother called his new jeans-trousers that I made him. They are a pretty good fit, certainly better than his shop-bought trousers/jeans. And they aren’t even to a personal block. These are standard size 32″, just shortened to his leg-length!
They are very much like the ones we made at Wayside Flower, but I drafted this pattern from scratch and used a zip-fly instead (whose specs I am still perfecting).
The photo above gives a good idea of the fit of the leg, and annoyingly, a view of the zip-pull. Why does the belt make that happen?!
At any rate, he’s happy with them, and he paid me £20 for the fabric etc., which is more than he usually pays for trousers. If he hadn’t been family I wouldn’t have done it for that (labour makes up a lot of the costs when you’re a small business), but I got to test the pattern, blog about it, and hope to make the pattern available (with some style modifications to avoid copying Wayside Flower’s design).
It took me two days of non-continuous work to make these, partly because I had an issue with the waistband. I think this denim may warrant interfacing on the waistband as I cut on the cross-grain (as Fasenalla advises) and it stretches a bit. It’s lovely denim, just soft enough and just heavy enough (11oz). And of course, no pins were used in the making of these jeans.🙂